Saturday, 30 April 2022

My Fat Friend

 I have a fat friend.

He's an aquaintance, a new friend. Someone I'm going to have to get to know over the next two months.

He's seriously fat. On the scales he weighs only 20kg, but to me, he's like a tonne. Heavier when he's wet, of course, and he's going to get very wet.

He sits on my hip bones, and sways gently as I stroll along.

He's black. And yes, that's a purposefully lower-case b. Because he's only black on the outside. Inside, I'm trying to think of him as sky-blue, a blue as light as air, a blue that floats along with me, on the trail. It's the only way I can cope with his weight, to think of him like this.

Inside, he's soft and warm. Downy soft, and hot-tea warm. And he's protective, because he's the one who is bringing along the plasters and the first-aid kit, as well as the maps and the compass.

It's a complicated relationship, him and me. Yes, it's new, so we're both exploring the other's vicissitudes, and limits. I need him and he, frankly, needs me - otherwise he'd get nowhere - but mutual need is not a great basis for a friendship. That sort of relationship can be pretty brittle. I'm not sure where the relationship is going - although I can clearly say that it is heading north. It's possible we'll come to like each other, in time. But not before we've taken a good few knocks. 

He's called Vaude. Has his name tattoed on his back, just so you don't forget it (is this arrogance?) It's a German name, although it sounds better if I say it in a French accent. I quite like the name. It sounds a bit like baud, which (as you'll know) is a measurement of the speed of data transfer. I like that speedy connection, as though he and I could fly over Scotland at the speed of light.

 I'll let you know later how we get on, Vaude and I.

Friday, 29 April 2022

It's a beautiful day, in Scotland

A reminder that the weather in Scotland is wet.


Here is the forecast for the first few days of my Stroll up Scotland:


It's always sunny, in Scotland

 

I must be mad. Here in Catalonia it's 24ÂșC and blazing sunshine.

Monday, 25 April 2022

A fitting beginning


 I'm packing. 

And unpacking. 

And packing again, but this time rotating everything 90°.

But still it won't fit. 

I am trying, really trying, to travel light, simple and small. My tent weighs less than a kilo, my Primus stove is tiny, and I'm taking the bare minimum of clothes. 

But my trial pack this weekend was a disaster. A bulging, nearly bursting rucksack, a whole bagful of stuff I couldn't squeeze in, and a pile of things that, OK, I can live without (no, I really don't need a magnify glass, or that extra pair of trousers...) 

So tomorrow I'm going to have to buy a bigger rucksack, and start again. It's that, or do a Dervla Murphy  https://www.travelbooks.co.uk/dervla-murphy/ and take a donkey. 

Wednesday, 9 February 2022

In Praise of Walkhighlands

 I'm preparing for the big Stroll Up Scotland, and there is one source that I turn to again and again - Walkhighlands - https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/

 

Founded by Helen and Paul Webster in 2006, the site contains the information that I need to make this walk work. There are extensive route commentaries, gear guides (I've taken advice on tents and cooking equipment so far) as well as links to Ordnance Survey maps. One user has posted video blogs of sections of the Scottish National Trail, which help me understand the terrain. The news section includes features on rewilding and land use - all of which help understand the context of the terrain I will be walking through.

 

The site is funded by donations from its users, and from the John Muir Trust and NESTA. So it is independent and objective, important in a site that touches on the health and safety of its readers.

Thank you, Helen and Paul!

 

 


Wednesday, 6 January 2021

A Stroll Up Scotland

My plan is to walk the 864km of the Scottish National Trail, between May and June 2022*.

The trail, devised by outdoors writer and broadcaster Cameron McNeish, runs from the Scottish border to Cape Wrath, through central Scotland, the Cairngorm, and the damp, boggy and midgy North West. The offical start is at the Kirk Yetholm Hostel, but I am planning to start a couple of days' walk further south west, at Kirkton, where my paternal grandmother was brought up.

It's always sunny, in Scotland


My estimated timings and walks - from the excellent WalkHighlands website, are:

 

Estimated Date

Stage


Time

2/5/2022

Kirkton to Ferniehirst

16km

4-5 hours

3/5/2022

Ferniehirst to Kirk Yetholm

25km

 6-8 hours

4/5/2022

Kirk Yetholm - Harestanes

28km

6-8 hours

5/5/2022

Harestanes to Melrose

24km

6-7 hours

6/5/2022

Melrose to Traquair

29km

6-8 hours

7/5/2022

Traquair to Peebles

12km

3 hours

8/5/2022

Peebles to West Linton

21km

5-6 hours

9/5/2022

West Linton to Balerno

19.25km

5-6 hours

10/5/2022

Balerno to Slateford

8.5km

2 hours

11/5/2022

Stop in Edinburgh

 

 

12/5/2022

Slateford to Ratho

9.5km

2-3 hours

13/5/2022

Ratho to Linlithgow

21km

4-5 hours

14/5/2022

Linlithgow to Falkirk

14.5km

3.5-4 hours

15/5/2022

Falkirk to Kilsyth

18km

4-5 hours

16/5/2022

Kilsyth to Milngavie

21.25km

5-5.5 hours

17/5/2022

Stop in Glasgow

 

 

18/5/2022

Milngavie to Drymen

19km

5-6 hours

19/5/2022

Drymen to Aberfoyle

17.5km

4.5-5 hours

20/5/2022

Aberfoyle to Callander

15.25km

4.5-5 hours

21/5/2022

Callander to Comrie

26.5km

6.5-7.5 hours

22/5/2022

Comrie to Loch Freuchie

30km

8-9 hours

23/5/2022

L. Freuchie to Aberfeldy

20km

4.5-5.5 hours

24/5/2022

Aberfeldy to Pitlochry

15km

4-5 hours

25/5/2022

Pitlochry to Blair Atholl

13.75km

3-3.5 hours

26/5/2022

Blair Atholl to Bynack

27km

6.5-7.5 hours

27/5/2022

Bynack to Glen Feshie

21.25km

5.5-6.5 hours

28/5/2022

Glen Feshie to Kingussie

23.5km

6-7 hours

29/5/2022

Stop in Kingussie

 

 

30/5/2022

Kingussie to Laggan

23.25km

6.5-7 hours

31/5/2022

Laggan to Fort Augustus

39.5km

10-12 hours

1/6/2022

Fort Augustus - Mandally

18.75km

4-4.5 hours

2/6/2022

Mandally to Poulary

19.5km

4-4.5 hours

3/6/2022

Poulary to Cluanie

17.5km

5-6 hours

4/6/2022

Cluanie to Morvich

26km

6.5-7 hours

5-6/6/2022

Stop at Morvich

 

 

7/6/2022

Morvich to Maol-bhuidhe

22.5 km

6.5-7 hours

8/6/2022

Maol-bhuidhe to Craig

24.25 km

6.5-7.5 hours

9/6/2022

Craig to Kinlochewe

16.5 km

4-5 hours

10/6/2022

Kinlochewe to Shenavall

28.25 km

7-8 hours

11/6/2022

Shenavall to Inverlael

18.75 km

4-5 hours

12/6/2022

Inverlael to Oykel Bridge

34.5 km

8-11 hours

13/6/2022

Oykel Br. to Inchnadamph

31.5 km

8-11 hours

14/6/2022

Inchnadamph- Kylestrome

27.5km

10-11 hours

15/6/2022

Kylestrome - Rhiconich

29.75km

9-11 hours

16/6/2022

Rhiconich - Sandwood

19km

4.5-5 hours

17/6/2022

Sandwood - Cape Wrath

12.5km

3.5-4.5 hours

 

I have added two days onto the standard route, so that I can start in Kirkton - there are family-history connections with the place, and pass Ferniehirst Castle, the seat of Clan Kerr - I wear the Kerr tartan.

 


 *Delayed because of Covid. My original plan was to do this in...2020, the Year of Covid. In the summer of that year it looked like we might be out of lockdown by the following Spring. Hopeless forecasting, because here we are in January 2022 and just getting out of lockdown now.